Introducing... Vinous Views!
Welcome to Vinous Views, a periodic airing of our wine team's observations and musings, aka Our Blog. This is not a dispensing of erudite information from high on the mount; this is us sharing with you the aspects of the wine world that pique our interest.
Please feel free to comment.... It's time to get the e-conversation started, don't you think?!
Traditional Media Delivers the Goods
Are you plugged in, turned on, linked in, grouped on, kindled, twittered, scvng-d and is your face on a book? If so you are probably enjoying the many benefits of new media, social media and all of those other medias. News when and how you want it, social connections always connected, etc. When it comes to information on the topic of wine these sources can entertain and educate to a certain degree. Information (and misinformation) from blogs, websites and tweets can be downloaded from that touchscreen in your pocket or your purse in a nanosecond.
There are times, however, when the voice of experience can trump the quick and easy. Assesing a Bordeaux vintage is one of those instances. The 2009 vintage in that most heralded of French appellations is in full hype mode, with praise and hyperbole being tossed around like frisbees in Malibu. Is it the vintage of the decade? Our lifetime? Of all Time!!!? And what exactly does that mean to you?
I have been in the wine trade for twenty years and have seen many "great vintages" come and go. I take pride in my first hand experience but do not consider myself the final word on the subject.
British wine writer Steven Spurrier has been in the wine trade for two more years than I have been alive (since 1964, if you must know). He was the organizer of the famous Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 which put California on the quality wine map when the west coast entries trumped their French counterparts in a blind tasting. He also founded the Christies wine course, has written several wine books and has contributed countless articles to various wine publications. The guy knows his stuff.
His article in the Bordeaux Issue 2010 supplement to Decanter Magazine's August issue is an outstanding overview of "modern" Bordeaux vintages and a perfect perspective placement of the 2009 vintage. The writng is succinct and easy to understand, the understanding of the subject matter impeccable and the educational take-away invaluable. The article is not yet available online yet so do yourself a favor: put down the I-Pad, pick up a copy of Decanter August 2010 Issue (yes, we do sell it), pour yourself a nice glass of claret and learn from the Master. When you are finished reading the first page, simply put your finger in the top right corner of the page and turn to the next. Repeat.
Then tell us your thoughts!
Are you a fan of the 2005 vintage? Are you looking forward to trying 2009?
Do you pay attention to wine writers? If so do you follow them in new media, traditional media or both?
Aug 18, 2010 at 12:01 AM
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August Wines of the Month
Dan doesn't crave fame, but he's just so great on film! It was too much fun to have him give the 2 minute 411 on this month's Staff wine picks. Don't forget, these bad boys deliver extra savings for our Wine Club members each month.
And...
Starting this month, we're extending our 10% OFF a single bottle purchase policy.... Now you can sample our monthly picks (aka buy one or more of these special selections) and enjoy the 10% savings all month long. Same rules apply on a mix/match case of our monthly picks, or 20% OFF a purchase of twelve or more bottles.
Cheers to that!
The Anti-Rose
You've heard me harping on the unique pleasures of sipping a charming dry rosé in these summeriest of summer months. What I haven't discussed much is the actual process of making rosé. There are three generally accepted methods of making pink wine pink:
The first and most common among the types of rosé we like is the saignée method. Literally meaning a "bleeding", this process is a by-product of red wine production. A red wine gains its color through extended contact with the grape skins, which also impart flavor compounds, healthy anti-oxidants and tannins. To maximize concentration of a red wine, a winemaker can "bleed off" some of the juice early in the process to increase the ratio of must (the fermenting juice) to grape skin, thus increasing the concentration of the red wine. The liquid, which is drained into a separate tank to continue fermenting, is a very light red or pink color. It retains some of the flavor complexities of its parent red wine but is a much lighter and fruitier version. A dry rosé is born!
Method two is less common, and perhaps displays even more dedication to the world of pink wine. This also entails the removing of juice from the skins of fermenting red grapes. But, that's where the process ends! No red wine is created and the skins are discarded. I've only encountered a few of these - and they're usually made by a producer who has to realize their bread and butter is making pink wine. The moment of truth comes when they have to judge the exact time to drain the juice from the skins. They literally stand on a latter at the top of an open tank and observe the color saturation until it is just the perfect hue, a matter of hours. When you've got 10 tanks going this can get tricky!
Lastly and leastly is the blending method. Simply take some white wine and add tiny amounts of red wine to it until the color and flavor profile you seek is reached. I shouldn't disparage; many fine rosés are produced this way, particularly in Champagne. But...
This brings us to our actual topic for today: The "Anti-Rosé". Denis Jamain, a producer in the Loire valley, makes a wine made from the "white" grape Pinot Gris that has the appearance of, and is commonly reffered to as, a rosé (Reuilly Pinot Gris 2009, $18.99). The trick is that the Pinot Gris (grey) grape is actually a blue-ish/grey-ish hue. In its common white wine form, the must does not see extended contact with the grape skins such that the appearance of the wine is clear to pale yellow. However, Jamain gives his Pinot Gris an extended maceration (soak on the skins). This imparts a yellowish, orangey pink color to the wine. So what you have is a delicious "rosé" that is not a rosé at all! It comes from the completely opposite direction. This unusual process gives the wine a richly textured, full-flavored character that is like no other. Ripe pears are accented by a touch of cran/cherry zip with beautiful minerality and refreshing acids.
This is a wine that never fails to elicit a "wow" from those who you pour it for. You can further impress them by telling the gripping, sordid tale of the "Anti-Rose"!
Do the details of wine production methods interest you or are you happy just to consume the final product?
Wine Label Navigation, What's in a Name?
It was the last official Tuesday at the Tasting Station of the summer this week. We're shuttin' 'er down to focus on our list of pet projects and the day to day operations of a wine shop in the hazy, lazy days of July and August. We'll pick it back up in September when we jump in head first to the fall "tasting season". With temps in the triple digits its not surprising that some of our vendors chose not to cart around wines to taste so the load was light. Check out the score card below.
Still, one topic that arose while tasting with Kathryn from Ruby was that of wine labeling and the difficulties consumers can have communicatiing the specific wine they are seeking. She was tasting us on the Huber "Obere Steigen" Gruner Veltliner from Austria. Now, imagine that you and yours just had that beauty at a restaurant over the weekend and have decided that you liked it so much you'd like to order a case.
You stroll into BSFW to get a price quote. If you told me that I want to order this wine called "Gruner" I'd have to explain that there are hundreds of examples of that grape type in our marketplace. If you could pull up the name Huber that would be a step in the right direction but Huber makes five different Gruner Veltliner (!), which one? The chances of you remembering the Obere Steigen bit are dubious at best.
The solution? The smart folks at Huber, realizing the tongue-twisting nature of their wines, created a peel away portion of the back label that allows you to take all of the essential information pertaining to that wine home with you. In the wallet or purse it goes and the only thing left to remember was how good the Creme Brulee was.
Hopefully other wineries will follow suit and make life easier for consumers and wine buyers alike.
Did you know about these peel away labels? Have you ever taken advantage of the tool before?
Total wines tasted: 44
Wines that made “the short list”: 4
One new addition you can look for: 08 Huber "Obere Steigen" Gruner Veltliner
Wine Trade Folk Fun (with Oregononian Pinot Noir Beaux Freres video)
Technical difficulties aside "capturing the moment" and then (the frustrating part...) loading to YouTube, we had a great week behind the Tasting Station last week. We were psyched to have (for the first time in a long while) a day where tasting WAS believing. Not only that, we had the great privilege of meeting several folks who really knew their stuff. This allowed us to vet some of our own knowledge, experiences and impressions tasting wine generally speaking, as well as in regard to the wine in our tasting glasses; it is this vetting that allows us to continue to step up our game and work with you, dear customer, to help you on your own wine adventure and continue to discover the vine less travelled.
It's true, we knew things were off to a great start when long-time winemaker Raimund Prum was due to stop by. He has been at the helm of S.A. Prum in Wehlen, Germany for the last 30+ years; his family has been making fine Rieslings and the like for 820 more of those, with his grandfather starting their own specific operation in 1911. (Yes, "Prum" is a name synonymous with German Riesling, if you hadn't yet noticed!) We tasted nine of his wares - all unique to the soil type and aspect of the specific site from which they hailed. Suffice to say, old vines impart magic! His wines are all incredibly well made, and worth the hefty price points they command. Keep an eye out down the line as spaces open up and we're able to start bringing in one or two of our most favorites in his all-too-exceptional lineup!
Next up in the "memorable" scheme of things, Bob Whitelatch of Claar (said "Claire") Cellars popped in. His Washington State wines have just come to market here in Boston - and we are h-a-p-p-y for it! Yes, we've heard your call and have been looking for a delicious, varietally correct UNOAKED Chard to mix things up for a while now. Whitelach's bottling was an immediate "YES!" for us on the buying front. You can find it in our cooler in the Chard section for a mere $13.99. It's a lot of wine for the money! You should also check out our "New Arrivals" area to find his brite, zesty, if not citrus-fruity Sauvignon Blanc. Another winner we had to make room for....
The day culminated with additional magic: Kurt Johnson from the exceptional, renown Willamette Valley, Oregon Pinot Noir producer Beaux Freres was in town. It was a great opportunity for us to ask him the questions about the wonderful world of Oregon Pinot we hear so often from you to get his perspective (and validate ours?). Check out our latest video to get the 411 straight from Kurt!
Total wines tasted: 57
Wines that made “the short list”: 5
One new addition you can look for: 08 Claar Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay (Washington State)
Rebecca explores the Southern Rhone
If you've chatted with me in the shop about wine, you likely know my heart belongs in the Cote du Rhone. I drink more of these wines at home and around town than perhaps elsewhere in the larger wine producing world. I have great respect for the French tradition, the terroir they love and cultivate so well. I also enjoy seeing what a new, younger generation of producers has to offer, too. From my perspective, it only "made sense" to make the jaunt overseas to this sacred land, home of Chateauneuf du Pape and Tavel (among others...) where some of the finest wines in the world thrive (no bias).
Check out my web album to enjoy my captions with photos, or whet your whistle below with this snapshot (pun intended) of where my travels took me - and a brief glimpse into the wonderful hospitality I enjoyed while abroad.
Ravines Wine Cellars Winemaker Morten Hallgren visits BSFW
When Lisa Hallgren, co-owner of Ravines Wine Cellars in the Finger Lakes wine region of New York, popped by Ball Square a few weeks back, Dan and I were thrilled with the portfolio of wines her husband, Morten, had created. Not only were they beautifully made, interesting and nuanced wines, but we had long been on the lookout for some new Finger Lakes offerings to fill our shelves. (Amazingly, they are difficult to get in these parts!)
Turns out Lisa was equally enamored with our Tasting Station and the curious customers she met while in the shop. She asked if it would be "ok" for Morten to come back for a Friday Night tasting. "Are you kidding?," we thought. If they were in town again, we'd be delighted to have them on deck! Imagine our enthusiasm when she offered to make the 5 - 6 hour drive back to Somerville just two weeks later - just for us!
Check out our latest videography efforts via YouTube or below capturing Morten Hallgren at work behind The Tasting Station!
Morten Hallgren of Ravines Wine Cellars, (Finger Lakes, NY) at BSFW April 30, 2010
For the Love of Wine and Food: A Bistro 5 Perfect Pairing
Since Dan and I were off at various external trade tastings last Tuesday, this week we can bring to you a preview of something we've been drumming up the last couple of months instead!
Bottom Line? I've been wanting to put together a Ball Square Fine Wines wine dinner for customers for some time. But I didn't want to just partner with "anyone" around town. First, I wanted to work with a fine dining locale equally committed to out-of-the-box thinking, that may be a bit more off the everyday radar from some other establishments that get a lot of well-deserved attention. Second, though perhaps naturally, said partner would be committed to working with boutique wine selections - wines that aren't mass produced, that may be a bit more off the beaten trail, that inspire curiosity and (we hope) immense pleasure. Last but not least, we also liked the idea of working with some one kinda like us, too, in a non-mainstream locale like Ball Square.
Bistro 5 in West Medford rose to the top of the mental list. They are not too far from us here in Ball Square, they are a huge contributor to the spirit of West Medford, and they are, no doubt, incredibly inspired and passionate about their craft.
Serendipitously (there is absolutely no other word for it), Bistro 5's GM Meghan Cormier (pictured below to Dan's left) and I happened to randomly strike up a conversation at a trade event back in March. When I found out where she worked, the wheels started turning and soon thereafter a "date" to meet and begin planning was set. There was no time like the present to kick things off!
Now the wheels are well in motion. As you can see from the photo, we've met several times now. Our theme is agreed upon (Spring Sipping on the Italian Coast) and the wines have officially been chosen! We've now handed the reigns over to well-regarded Chef/Owner Vittorio Ettore (right of Rebecca) to mastermind a menu to best feature the finer elements soon to be in your glass, too.
This event will be ticketed in advance as space will be limited. Stay tuned for more details about how to snag a spot at the table! We're thrilled to be working with this crew - and Dan and I can't wait to walk you through the wines alongside Chef Ettore's mouthwateringly delicious 5-courses.
Whaddayou think? Do you hope to attend this first-ever Ball Square Fine Wines event?
Burgundy to the 4th Power
When we last left the topic of the great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from that swath of land in France known as Burgundy I was lamenting.... Well you can read what I was lamenting in my Burgundy, Burgundy, Burgundy post from a few weeks back if you'd like.
I'll pick up the story here: Upon returning from the shop after tasting 80+ Burgs at the Martine's Wine's tasting I was greeted by a friendly and familiar face: Laurent Drouhin from (where else?) Burgundy! Laurent was in town on a promotional tour for his family's winery Maison Joseph Drouhin and stopped by BSFW to offer samples of some of their recent offerings. Laurent is an energetic and passionate spokesperson for his family's wines and the region in general.
After I explained how I had just come from a trade event that featured Burgundy, and how I had encountered many very young and very expensive and hard to judge wines from critically acclaimed, artisan producers, Laurent's face lit up. "Ah," he said. "That is why you should sell my family's wine, for we make 'populist' Burgundy!" He was referring to the fact that Drouhin is not a small company but a rather large one (by Burgundian standards) that sources grapes from throughout the Cote d'Or, Macon and Chablis and also owns significant vineyard acreage. This production power allows them to bottle many of the most prestigious wines such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits St. Georges and Pommard all under one label and at a relatively affordable price. The next obvious question is, "Well, what about the quality?"
Fast forward a month and Rebecca and I are attending a portfolio tasting of importer Dreyfuss, Ashby & Co. at the Top of the Hub. Drouhin is part owner of Dreyfuss so there were plenty of Laurent's wines available to sample. In general the wines were indeed of very good quality, showing pure fruit, lifting acids and regional identity.
Some highlights:
The 2008 whites showed exceptional vitality and elegance. This appears to be a vintage to celebrate. The Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres 1er Cru was beguiling showing both power and restraint, with an exotic floral element offset by classic minerality and a finish that just wouldn't quit. It was the rare wine that as a seasoned professional taster, I just couldn't spit. Is it worth $89? As much as any white wine can be, I suppose.
Aside from the preview of the 2008 vintage, there were two full tables of "in stock" items. Some of these were wines that are starting to show maturity. This helps clear one of the major hurdles of spreading the Burgundy word, finding wines that are ready to drink. One standout of this group was the 2005 Cotes de Beaune rouge. This wine is made exclusively from vineyards owned by Drouhin - and it was really starting to show its stuff. Wet loam and well kept barn complexities melded seamlessly with still vibrant red and black fruits. The texture was mouth-filling and rounded until the maturing tannins stepped in to keep the whole affair in order. This was coming close to the "magic" that is a great red Burgundy experience. For just under $40 you can't really call it a bargain but you can say its a well justified treat!
In the end, Maison Joseph Drouhin's wines may never hit the highest heights of some of the region's legendary producers like Comte Georges de Vogue or Domaine de la Romanee Conti, but as Laurent claimed, they consistently deliver good examples of white and red Burgs. And if you hit one just right, a little bit of vinous magic may come your way.
Score Card
Total wines tasted: 55
Wines that made “the short list”: 7
One to look for in the store this weekend: 05 Maison Joseph Drouhin Cotes de Beaune rouge
A Viticultural Visitor
Though it was rainy and windy Tuesday at the Tasting Station with few wines to taste and fewer to get excited about, a ray of vinous sunshine came our way midday-ish when we were visited by Jason Tosch, the Director of Viticulture for Anne Amie Vineyards in Oregon. While it is fairly common to have regional "reps" from wineries visit us and a rare treat to have the actual winemaker make the trip, it is extremely unusual to have the viticulturalist presenting wines.
A viticulturalist is the guy or gal in the vineyards, the "farmer", the steward of the land - in other words, the "soul" of a winery. Jason was a wonderful ambassador for his trade and a wealth of well-articulated information.
One thing he made very clear was that the viticulturalist doesn't simply hand off grapes to the winemaker for vinifying; at least in the case of Anne Amie, they are partners in the entire process. Which grapes are for the single varietal wines? Which will go in the Cuvee A blends? How long should the riesling hang? What should we plant next and where? These are all decision that the viticulturalist is instrumental in making.
A couple of interesting tidbits from our conversation:
1. Jason mentioned that the Riesling vines were over thirty years old. I asked how much their production had fallen off due to their age. He described a process where they actually send an auger deep into the soil between the vines and cut the spreading roots of the Riesling vines. This process puts the plant into "production" mode and insures regular yields.
2. Anne Amie is certified sustainable though LIVE (low input viticulture and enology). Jason noted that a sustainable certification is much less expensive than an organic one and leaves him more room to use modest amounts of mild chemicals in the event of extreme circumstances (such as spraying SO2 to fight mildew in wet years).
3. He also explained that when vinifying their white wines they would ferment them until they were "bone dry" (leaving zero residual sugar) and then add back unfermented grape juice called muté to balance the wine.
Incidentally, the entire line-up of Anne Amie wines was stellar. (Of course this should come as no surprise since we carry almost all of them!)
Is a sustainable certification like LIVE "good enough" for you or do you prefer to see a full organic certification?
Score Card
Total wines tasted: 39
Wines that made “the short list”: 1
One old favorite that was tasting GREAT: 08 Anne Amie "Cuvee A" Amarita White (Oregon)
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