Vinous Views, Beer Banter and Other Musings

The BSFW blog offers a periodic airing of our staff's observations and musings about things we find in our market and, frankly, can't live without. This is not a dispensing of erudite information from high on the mount; this is us sharing with you the aspects of the fine wine, craft brew and gourmet worlds that pique our interest.

This congenial approach is something we take seriously - so please feel free to comment! Afterall,it's our customers that inspire us to do what we love to do - and do it even better than before at every opportunity.

Ball Square Fine Wines
 
March 30, 2015 | Ball Square Fine Wines

Common Misconception Monday: Champagne Vs. Sparkling Wine


 

When it comes to commonly misused wine words, "Champagne" likely tops the list.

 Most wine industry folks blame the big money, large production, domestic sparkling wine producers for furthering this confusion (ever see "California Champagne" on a wine label?). If you were under the impression that any wine that bubbles or any bottle that goes 'pop!' is Champagne -  it's not your fault. While often used interchangeably with bubbly, sparkling wine, and even Prosecco, Champagne is really a horse of a different color.

 

What is Champagne?

The better question is "where is Champagne?". Champagne is a region in Northeast France (between Paris and Belgium). Like many old world wine regions (Bordeaux, Rioja, Chianti, etc.) 'Champagne' as a wine term refers to the sparkling wines produced within this very specific region of France and made in accordance with the regulations of the region.

 

How is Champagne different from Sparkling Wine or Bubbly?

It isn't. Champagne is a specific example within the broad genre of Sparkling Wine/Bubbly. In addition to its specific origin, it must be made of at least one of the following: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and (can include a small amount of the blending grape) Pinot Meunier. Some other examples within the genre f Sparkling Wines are Prosecco, Cava, Cremant, Sekt, Spumante (the list goes on...).

 

What's Prosecco?

Prosecco is Sparkling Wine from Italy (more specifically a region called Veneto).  It's made from an indigenous grape varietal called Glera (nowadays, the grape is known by Prosecco also).

 

So, What's the difference between Prosecco and Champagne (other than where they're from)?

There are many differences between the two. In fact, the only commonality is really the bubbles!

Production Method

There are two varying methods for creating Sparkling Wine. The first method, called Méthode Champenoise or Méthode Traditionnelle begins with still (not sparkling) wine that undergoes second fermentation in the bottle. The bi-product of fermentation, gas released within the bottle is then trapped there creating small, tight, agressive and long-lasting bubbles. Prosecco is produced using the second method, known as Charmat Method. Rather than creating pressure/carbonation in the bottle, the wine base for Prosecco goes through its second fermentation prior to bottling. This allows for the release of some of the gas created during fermentation and results in more delicate, gentler, quickly dissapating bubbles.

Tasting Notes

Beyond the regionality, grape varietals, and methods of production, one of the biggest differences between Champagne and Prosecco is the taste. Prosecco is known for its fruit forward notes of Green Apple, Peaches and Citrus; whereas, Champagne is renowned for notes of Brioche, Bagels, and Fresh Bread.

Price Tag

Looking for "cheap Champagne"? Unfortunately, you're out of luck. Given the prestige of the region and expense of the winemaking, a bottle of Champagne can fetch a pretty penny. Affordable Champagne? How's $35-40 a bottle? Something less expensive? Let's talk Prosecco! In addition to a less prestigious growing area, the Charmat Method is a more afforable way of producing bubbly. With a shorter fermentation period, larger yielding production and no need for the intensive, hands-on care required of Method Champenoise - a bottle of quality Prosecco can be yours for well under $20!

 

Other Inexpensive Bubbly Alternatives

So, what do you ask for instead of "cheap Champagne"? Shop around and see what you like! Most wine producing countries make some version of a Sparkling Wine. Like those intense long-lasting bubbles, but don't wanna pay for Champagne? Try Cava, Sparkling Wine from the Penedes region of Spain. Something fruitier? Check out some of the Bubblies coming from South America or Australia!

 

Here are a few of our favorite affordable, everyday Sparklers - No special occasion neccessary!

 

 

Time Posted: Mar 30, 2015 at 3:08 PM
Ball Square Fine Wines
 
March 23, 2015 | Ball Square Fine Wines

Common Misconception Monday: Riesling? Sweet!

 

 

 

 

 

Like many misunderstood things in life, over the years Riesling has developed a bit of a bad reputation.

Many American consumers associate Riesling with cheap, sweet, girly whites and they're not wrong to do so. Between overly stylized labels marketed to those looking for a less serious beverage and the influx of sweet Riesling on the domestic market in the 1980s - consumers are right to be a little wary when seeing the R-word.

So, how has this polarizing grape becoming a favorite varietal for wine nerds around the globe?

Let's jump right into it!
 

Let's talk "Sweetness"
The term 'residual sugar' (or RS for short) is often thrown around when industry folks open up a bottle of Riesling. RS refers to the leftover natural grape sugars that remain after fermentation ends. The "juice" that starts the winemaking process is incredibly sweet. As fermentation occurs, the yeast involved eats up the existing sugar, resulting in (tah-dah) alcohol!

Fermentation can stop for many reasons (varying yeast strains, Botrytized fruit, fermenting temperture, etc.) and at different points in the process, resulting in different concentrations of Residual Sugar. The more grams of RS in the wine, the sweeter the wine will be.

Let's talk "Nuance"
While for some tasters it's all about the sugar-shock, it's the odd tasting notes that have elevated Riesling's standing amongst the nerdiest of wine nerds. Riesling is truly a grape that exemplifies the land it was grown on and the process by which it was made. Often noted for it's slatey characteristics and notes of petrol and rubber, it's the earthen qualities of the terrior rather than the fruited tones that have drawn the critics' acclaim.
 

Let's talk "Style"
As with anything in life, Riesling is all about style. In Germany, where some of the earliest documented records of Riesling dates back to the mid-1400's, they categorize these varied styles using the Prädikat System.

Imagine the Prädikat System like a pyramid, with the most basic (and largest production) Rieslings at the base and the rare, expensive and incredibly small production wines at the apex. We'll start at the bottom and work our way up.

Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) is the most basic level. It certifies that the grapes are of a certain ripeness and from one of the thirteen designated German wine regions.

Wines worthy of added distinction fall into one of these upper tiers:

Kabinett refers to lighter styled wines that range on the drier side of the spectrum. These wines are clean, refreshing, and have enough acid to properly balance any RS.

Spätlese wines can range from dry to off-dry to sweet and generally have more viscosity than their Kabinett counterparts.

Auslese wines are made from hand-picked clusters of very ripe grapes usually affected by Botrytis mold (Noble Rot). Auslese wines can also be made from dry to sweet, but most offerings found in the US will run on the sweeter side.

Beerenauslese (BA) is the distinction given to very sweet, concentrated, dessert-style wines crafted from individually selected berries (Beeren) usually affected by Botrytis mold.

Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) wines are made from individually selected berries (rather than clusters) that have been affected by Botrytis mold and have shriveled to the point of raisins. These grapes created very rich, textural, lucious, honey-like wines. They are some of the most expensive wines in the world and are often extremely hard to find.

 

How to Buy Riesling: Dry vs. Sweet

Key words like Trocken (dry) or Halbtrocken (half-dry) will often be added to German QbA Rieslings to designate the level of sweetness.

But, just in case your German is a little rusty (or your looking for Riesling from Australia), there are other ways to help determine if the bottle of Riesling your looking at is drier or sweeter! Not every one uses the Prädikat System, so how can you tell what's going on in side that bottle?

The ABV, or 'alcohol by volume' listed on the label is a good place to start. Riesling with lower alcohol (7-10%) will generally be more delicate with floral notes and an off-dry or medium-dry finish. Higher alcohol Rieslings (11-13%) though often fuller in body are generally drier in style.

The region the wine is coming from often suggests style as well. Looking for something drier? Check out Riesling from Alsace or Australia's Eden Valley! New York State or Washington State Rieslings labelled "Dry" are also a sure bet. Something a little sweeter? Try out a proper Auslese or some American 'Sweet' Riesling (we vote - California or Finger Lake's)!

 

        
Left: 'Dry Riesling' from the Finger Lakes Region of New York State
Right:  German Riesling bearing the Prädikat Kabinett distinction

 

 

So, after all of that, why is it that this former bad-boy grape is fast becoming America's sweetheart?

The answer is simple - Balance.

Whether it be the balance of a spicy meal with an off-dry bottle of Riesling, the balance of acidity to residual sugar, or the balance of fruit flavors with the nuances of regional terroir, Riesling can be truly transcendent.

 

Time Posted: Mar 23, 2015 at 3:00 PM
Beer Buffs
 
June 3, 2013 | Beer Buffs

Cidre Dupont Reserve

Cidre Dupont Reserve, and other Cider musings

Though fructose only makes a small fraction of sugar normally fermented in the production of beer, today's featured product ferments only fructose, and is more than deserving of this special write up.  Fructose from apples to be exact, French apples at that.

Not to be confused with Brasserie Dupont of Belgium, Domaine Dupont produces Ciders and Calvados.  Being in the Normandy region, their products are authentically French, and taste as much.  Ever the antithesis of English and American macro cider production, subtlety, earth and a bone-dry finish are the focus on their products. 

Cidre Dupont Reserve is an exceptional product.  Built off of their famous Cidre Dupont, extended aging in used Calvados Casks is what sets this bottle apart.  The pungent funk and pasture-like aroma is richly enveloped in a dense, silky oak finish.  The counterpoint of sharp and soft never conflict, but offer an expansive complexity that is rivaled by few products, cider, beer or wine.  This exceptional product is unfortunately limited, and there are only 11 bottles to spare.  Enjoy this gem with food.

If you would like to try even more ciders (upwards of 40), and try them for free, come by the shop Monday, June 17th from 5-7pm for our annual Grand Cider Tasting.  What the heck, we'll throw a couple of Meads in there as well!

Time Posted: Jun 3, 2013 at 5:00 AM
 
December 6, 2012 |

Stocking Stuffer ideas!

We aren't the kind of store to give you the hard sell, as you well know - we just get really excited about sharing the truly cool things we've found!

What better time to get excited than now? I certainly embrace my inner-elf! I absolutely relish coming up with fun, personal ideas for my friends and family and then basking in the glory of watching their reaction to what I've found for them.


This year I have plenty of reason to celebrate life - so this year I give to you a few of my favorite...

"Stocking Stuffer" ideas!


1. Kopke Fine Tawny Port, which comes in a convenient 375ml size ($11.99)

2. Duck Foie Gras ($21.99 and the gift that can become part of your Christmas day 'pre-game', too!)

3. Macallan 12 Year "mini me" ($8.99)

4. Marcona Almonds ($4.99)

5. Ball Square Wine/Bottle Opener ($9.99)

6. Ball Square Shot Glass ($2.99 - helpful also in case the natives get restless)

7. Op & Top Netherlands Brew 11.2oz ($5.44)

8. Marquis de la Tour Bubbly 375ml ($5.99)

9. Taras Boulba Extra Hoppy Ale 11.2oz ($4.44)

10. Cafe Tasse Chocolates ($2.49/bar)

11. And... for the person you love (to go out with) City Dining Cards 2012, featuring 50 $10 Discount cards for Boston's finest establishments ($20)

 

And hear you have the Ball Square recipe for success. Merry, merry!

 

 
December 3, 2012 |

The Art of Aperitifs

Last Saturday our very own Will Durbin manned the Tasting Station for a sampling of Aperitifs. These unique, simple yet sophisticated spirits proved they are, indeed, perfect for satiating your guests this holiday season!

Since so much information was imparted about the spirits themselves as well as best uses, we thought it might be helpful to follow the tasting with a few notes about each, and recommendations for cocktails also. Here we go!

Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth - The flagship aperitif of Imbue Cellars. This American vermouth was created for sipping on the rocks, with complexities such as elderflower, dried tangerine, vanilla, lemongrass, and honey coming to bear. Of course these same notes provide just the kind of head-turning aromas and flavors that make for interesting cocktail-mixing! Whether you're a purist or not, this Oregon-based spirit is one to lift yours.    $24.99

Strega - Here we have an old-school Italian liquor that has been produced in Campagnia since 1860. Strega's is a recipe for success, with approximately 70 undisclosed herbal ingredients combining forces to deliver an award-winning product (San Francisco World Spirits Competition Gold Winner). Over ice or mixed, this is a party pleaser.   $34.99

Krown Swedish Punsch - Could it be Scandanavia's most famous liquor? It is! Made with sugar cane and spirits from the East and West Indies, you'll discover rich toffee, smoke, leather and molasses notes. Our cocktail curious crowd Saturday night deemed this their informal favorite. It's a natural!   $29.99

Elizabeth Allspice Dram - Here we have a holiday natural! This Aperitif also known as Pimento Dram was the beesknees here in the U.S. in the early 1900s, but an importing hiatus thereafter ensured this all-spice berried liquor became scarce all too quickly. Today Elizabeth is back in fashion, with clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper notes making it a natural component in classic cocktails like the favorite "Lion's Tail" popping up around town, Wassail, and mulled wine!    $31.99

 

Drop on by to grab a bottle for your cocktail party or soiree this holiday season, or to see what other Aperitifs we have on hand!

 
August 14, 2012 |

Fun in the Sun - Chillable Reds!

It's summer in the city and yet Dan and I are drinking just about equal parts red, white and rose. What gives? The temperature - of our red wines, that is!

Talking to customers every day we know there is a misconception out there that red wine shouldn't go in the fridge. Believe us when we tell you that's far from the truth. Personally speaking, I've found the notion is reinforced when you go out to eat. More often than not if you go to a nice restaurant they are missing the mark with the temperature they serve their wines; it is a challenge for them to keep their glass pours cold enough because they are often refilling glasses or uncorking new bottles and the wine either never goes back into the wine fridge due to the turnover, or it comes from too warm a place on the shelf behind the bar where it is easily accessible.

At home you have the 'luxury' of getting it right. Remember, nowadays room temp is higher than it used to be. And in the summer that's even higher! My house sits at about 80 degrees during the day. My cellar is around 72 degrees in the summer. Red wine (depending on the grape and region it comes from) shouldn't really be served higher than 60 degrees! Here's a chart which breaks it down fairly well.

If you're wondering if it really matters at the end of the day, it does. A wine that's served too warm is wearing a mask - none of its personality has a chance to show let alone shine. Wake up the wine by simply putting it in the fridge for 20 or 30 minutes to get it to serving temperature. That's about the time it takes me to kick off my shoes after my day, flip through the mail and get dinner started. All you have to do is grab the bottle off the rack and get it in the fridge before you start your Unwinding Process!

Of course, there are also wines that fall into the "Chillable Reds" category. These wines don't just loose their mask they virtually frollick in the glass once they get the 40 minute fridge treatment! Beaujolais (France - grape type: Gamay) and Loire Valley Cabernet Franc are fans of a little enclosed "AC" aka your fridge; Nebbiolo, Barbera, Sangiovese, Sciava and Frappato are Italian grapes that are also chill-loving; Spanish Tempranillo that hasn't seen a lot of oak doesn't mind it one bit either. If you are entertaining grab the chill bucket and give the wine an ice bath for 10 minutes and you are good to go. Refill the bucket with ice and let your guests enjoy the good life - and learn a new trick!

Time Posted: Aug 14, 2012 at 6:00 AM
 
July 9, 2012 |

Germany - final 'tastes' of key wine regions

PART THREE: Rheinhessen & Baden

After several days of tasting really great wine, I can't lie, you do wonder if you just stacked your cards right or if some level of 'disappointment' might not be that far off. Then again, if it was to come, I knew it wasn't coming at the hand of Wagner Stempel!

We landed in the northern part of the Rheinhessen as the sun broke through the clouds "officially" and some more late-springlike (n-o-t summer) warmth with it. Tromping through the much more rolling hills/vineyards in these "conditions" was a treat. Assistant Winemaker Oliver Mueller was our guide, providing tremendous insight about their more Burgundian-like spot within the Rheinhessen appellation as well as the non-Riesling grapes they cultivate (though, of course, Riesling does have a very large presence, too). Silvaner, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and (of course) Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) all have a home here.

Walking up through the vineyards was more like meandering, compared to the Mosel and Rheingau's much steeper slopes. Oliver was incredibly passionate - and gave some great insight about their organic approach, explaining how their practices came about and demonstrating with his large visual aids (the vineyards themselves) how their practices lead to healthier vines and, therefore, better fruit for winemaking. (You could see their neighbor's adjacent vineyards were flagging comparatively- why they didn't follow suit bewildered us.) Stempel's philosophy, like so many of our hosts already, is that wine is made in the vineyards first.

We met lead winemaker and owner, Daniel Stempel, back at the winery in their gorgeous open courtyard to sample the wines. Daniel and Oliver are clearly on the same page, as Daniel led with the same thought - that he enjoys his work in the vineyards most - and that that was where the wine was made. Wine after wine tasted, nuances were more fruit-driven and the minerality more warming; think of it this way - the minerality in the Mosel was like icicles hanging off the eaves like daggers; in the Rheingau these were just starting to melt, with softer edges; and at Stempel the crisp, fresh water was running through our fingertips like a narrow-running brook's waterfall edge - forcefully, yet softly. Compelling? No doubt. Another three-hour appointment slipped by as the daylight hovered in the hills.

The next day took us yet still farther South. We had an appointment at Dr. Heger/Weinhaus Heger after lunch with winemaker Markus Mleinek in the Kaiserstuhl region, Baden particularly. Markus started our tour in the cellars, where it was self-evident that this was an operation that valued tradition and the importance of showcasing terroir in wine, as much as they did innovation. Markus even shared that they experimented once with American oak, which to my knowledge is virtually unheard of in traditional "Old World" winemaking regions, save parts of Spain and Portugal. American oak is known for supplying a bold "marinade" in wines both texturally and in flavor profile (a post for another day); Markus chuckled at the thought, noting that the wine which resulted was "too loud", so they moved on. Stainless steel tanks in one part of the cellar - different sized (and different origin) wood barrels in others.  Different projects command different vessels - having the capacity (and need!) to cope another feat entirely.

Our vineyard tour was also astounding. In the distance the Rhine river - and France! - terraces of unique volcanic soil lay in front of us. Here, too, they employ various techinques to mitigate using too many chemicals in the vineyards. The wine bottles hanging on the line PICTURED RIGHT are filled with sugar water, to keep pests elsewhere and harmony happening naturally in the vineyards! Brilliant for its simplicity and effectiveness.

Heger's projects are many, hence the two names on the door: Dr. Heger/Weinhaus Heger. Dr. Heger is the elite-most line, Weinhaus Heger just below on the totem pole - and Fischer a special project we were just as happy to sample featuring a collaboration with a local cooperative of wine growers where they invest knowlege as much as any other resource to ensure quality grapes are grown. We tasted 30 some wines this afternoon, each as compelling as the next, more than respectworthy for its unique place in the Heger "family" of offerings. Yes, the spit bucket needed to be relieved several times to accomodate our 'thirst' to sample as much as possible with Marcus.

What was particularly interesting is that here in Baden red grapes have an important presence - although the white lineup was more than compelling in itself. Not one Spaetburgunder failed to deliver, and we tasted several back vintages of current wines - as these delicious treats can certaily age! Smoked meats, fresh pink roses, violets, volcanic soil, ripe black cherry fruit comingling with tart pomegranate and boysenberry exploded in various proportions from the glass; finesse met power with perfect elegance, and a picture was painted on a virtual timeline, showcasing anticipated versions of perfection as the individual wines showed that day, and would again at various points in the future.

Yes, it was a helluva way to end the formal portion of our tasting adventures. Back here at home I realized I learned more in Germany than on any other wine trip (so far). No doubt I had the most to learn, and therefore the most to gain. It didn't hurt that the appointments I had, and the recommendations from winemakers we enjoyed meeting, were spot on. If you're going to do a whirlwind wine country tour inside of a week, this was the way to do it! Literally it was a sampling of German wine regions. I guess I'll have to go back!

Time Posted: Jul 9, 2012 at 2:25 AM
 
July 3, 2012 |

Germany - terroir adventures continue further South

PART TWO (RHEINGAU)

After two full days in the Mosel it was time to go vineyard/region-hopping as we drove South through German wine country. To save time on the way to our first appointment in the Rheingau, about two hours from the Mosel, we took a car ferry (so cool!) across the Rhine River. It deposited us on the other bank just down the slope from Josef Leitz's winery. (Perhaps starting with the ferry experience itself, the visit at Leitz offered not just great wine tasting, but also a terrific lesson in German history - e.g. ferries keep transport efficient and fluid, as many key bridges were destroyed in World War II).

We found Johannes Leitz (said "Lights"  - the winery is named for his father Joseph, who died when Lietz was only 2 years old) with his gardening gear on, wheelbarrow in hand. He quickly terminated his home gardening duties, ushered us into his immaculate tasting room and jumped right into a detailed discussion about the Rheingau; terrific photos told the story of its unique terroir, including the microclimates and varied soil types that 'co-exist' just meters from each other. (I HIGHLY encourage you to visit his website to get a feel for this yourself! It's one of the best sites I've seen.)

This initial 'classroom' work gave us an important overview and worked wonders as we jumped in Johannes' SUV and traveled into the vineyards themselves. Narrow and winding dirt "roads" took us upward and inward; jumping out of the car at strategic points, we could feel the climate change (literally just around the bend!) and could investigate the soil closely. We learned more about the history of the Rheingau, the variation between Upper and Lower portions, and got a verbal preview of which wines we would taste in relation to the vineyard site from which they came. Fascinating stuff.

Back at the tasting room Leitz offered two glasses - and initiated my favorite kind of tasting: a 'taste off' between wines so we could literally taste terroir variation. While tasting (interrupting the banter with reactions to the wines about their various depth and power, floral and herbal nuance and sleek compelling texture, plus a few nose-blowings as my 'quality control' kicked in to the mineral explosion offered) we continued to learn more about his operation, how much he has expanded over the years without sacrificing quality and staying true to his terroir-driven focus. We also learned more about his experience exporting, and in particular to the USA. Yes, he too faces some importer pushback when getting his truly dry wines to market. The Dragonstone which we carry here is a slightly different version than the one he sells elsewhere in the world. That said, he launched a new project last year called Eins (1) - Zwei (2) - Dry (3), which we expect to carry in the near-term. Stay tuned!

After spending three memorable hours with Johannes, it was time to get back in the car, head back down to the ferry and drive an hour+ to get a taste of the Rheinhessen!

 
June 27, 2012 |

Germany - a wine country learning extravaganza

PART ONE  (MOSEL)

Stunning. That's the one word that comes to mind when reflecting on my tour through German wine country last week. The landscape. The micro-climates and soil types (aka, terroir). The people. The energy. The bread! The cheese. The meats. The crisp, cleansing, mind-bottlingly pure, DRY (trocken) wines!!

I had the most to gain from this learning adventure for a number of reasons. German wines are much less widely consumed by customers at BSFW than Italian, French or Spanish wines - we taste fewer of them as a result. These are wines that have regional typicity (e.g. Mosel vs. Baden), but often they are grouped and evaluated by grape type (e.g. Riesling), rather than against other examples from the region from which they come. It's not often you can focus on the region and specific vineyards sites, let alone 'pitting' producers against each other!

Germany had been on my 2012 travel agenda for some time; yet only in the last year or so did a 'quieter' conversation emerge among wine colleagues as well as among customers (generally from Germany or those who have traveled there) that the wines we see here in the U.S. aren't "the same". They are largely sweeter than what you find in Germany itself.  It turns out many of the wines exported to our market are (unfortunately) wines destined for the American palate. (And when I say "American palate" think the M.cD's and Pepsi-Cola culture that's largely exported abroad.) 

While Riesling can be vinified with some residual sugar, authentic, widely consumed German Riesling abroad is DRY. I cannot emphasize this enough. These wines are tongue-tinglingly, food-demanding, palate-strikingly D-R-Y, aka "Trocken". And they are absolutely, say it with me now, stunning!

The first stop on the tour was the Mosel - probably the most well-known German wine producing region, and best known for its Riesling. I've joked that I would never want to work harvest in the Mosel because the slopes are so bloody steep and narrow that I would put down my bucket of grapes (hand-harvesting is the only way to do it as no machine could manage the incline) and accidentally kick it over with my foot, sending hundreds of dollars down the hill with it. Having been there now, I can say that even as a fairly agile human, I would definitely not sign up first for the task. And it is oh-so-precious fruit indeed.

I purposely set up appointments with folks I knew from experience and saved a bit of time to 'play', visiting wineries on recommendation. My tour began at Weiser Kuensler and we focused on their Trocken selection. I was captivated from the outset. Literally, my nose ran as my "quality control" (allergy-based, herbal/terroir sensitive) organ discovered fresh herbs, flower blossoms and cold-waterfall air bursting out of the glass. My tongue tingled as the minerality and gentle fruit flavors swept through the palate. My mouthwatered (for a while!) on the savory finish. Wine after wine tasted, various nuances captured my senses in these ways showing me the power of Mosel, variously blue and red slate terroir; there was a distinct cleansing purity among them, showing their family resemblance and truth of place.  

The next morning S.A. Pruem was up. And yes, this is a winery I've been happy to be familiar with for some time, and owner/winemaker Raimond Pruem (a lovely gent and great winemaker!) had suggested I stay in the Estate's Guest Haus when my 2012 trip came to fruition. Suffice to say, if you make this trip - stay there, too!!! After a great night's sleep and killer breakfast (German style, my fav!) we tasted with Raimond's daughter Saskia. Here we revisited wines I knew - and also the European version (drier!) of a wine we carry: S.A. Pruem Blue Slate Riesling. Also on the tasting agenda were aged Rieslings. Here we found a highlight in the mix: 1994 Bernkastler Riesling, fresh and mouthwateringly delicious - PRIMA!!! (Note: German Riesling in particular ages quite well, as the backbone of the wine is acidity, which allows well made offerings of great vintages to thrive for decades!)

AJ Adam was next on our Mosel tour - a recommendation from Konstantin Weiser on Day 1 of the trip. We took our chances and popped by, catching Andreas coming home from the vineyards by tractor for a little lunch break. Two hours later we had tasted a delicious sampling of Rieslings from his portfolio. A family resemblance was present among these wines also - a ripeness of fruit cut with nearly searing acidity and a wet-stone-meets-talc-like minerality texture on the tongue. These wines were compelling for their sleek precision - yet elegance! Not yet part of the BSFW repertoire, we discovered we can get our hands on a few of his wines, including one of my favorites: 2011 Dhroner Riesling, $35.99. Stay tuned to see what graces our shelves!

Our too-brief Mosel tour ended at Guenther Steinmetz, another recommendation from Konstantin, with a random tasting of wines from the estate's large and uncharacteristically diverse portfolio. Case in point: here we had our first sampling of red wines, not grapes grown in great quantity in the Mosel; Pinot Noir (aka Spatburgunder) does, no less, have a home here. The favorite was 2009 Kestener Herrenberg (unfiltered!) Pinot Noir. (Rumor has it they are transitioning importers so we have to see where this one lands before we can revisit the lineup and see if any have a place here at BSFW.)

Not ready and a bit sad to leave, it was off to dinner and then back to bed for a quick night's sleep - then on to the Rheingau!

Dan Lech
 
April 24, 2012 | Dan Lech

Adventures on the Champagne Route: The Crisp and Focused Group

As reported in my last post, over the past four months I've undertaken the painstaking chore of drinking my way through our Champagne selection. I know, just another tedious day at the office. Now that I've completed my fizzy exploration I've broken the wines into stylistic categories: Crisp and Focused; Toasty/Creamy; Terroir Driven; and Rose. These categories are of my own making and do not have direct relation to the wine's grape make-up, the winemaker's intent or how the Champagne house in question describes their product. 

Today we'll get into the specifics with the first category - Crisp and Focused! These wines have a vibrancy and "lift" to them with penetrating bubbles. Here are more specifics:

 

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs - 100% Chardonnay.

This wine is verily the definition of "crisp and focused". Green apple and lime fruits sting the taste buds. Squeaky clean stones echo on the edges of taste perception. Wave after lovely wave of pinpoint bubbles caress the tongue and resonate in the ears. The strange effect is of a wine that is barely there but that has your complete attention. Finishes with lingering apple fruit in classic Chardonnay fashion. A lovely wine and priced accordingly.

 

Billecart Salmon Brut - 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay.

Red apple skin on the nose and initial palate. The bubbles are effusive and intense. They almost "hurt" at first but soon the palate adjusts to the assault and the mouse becomes a welcomed (so good, must have more!) cleanser. Maraschino cherry and pear fruits emerge along with almond slivers, orange rind and unbaked bread dough. This is an ultra-focused and serious bubbly for those whose palate doesn't mind a polite and well-intentioned slap! Among my fav's.

 

Laurent Perrier "Grand Siecle" Brut - 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir.

By far the most expensive wine of the entire survey and a real splurge on my part. Straddles the line between the "Crisp and Focused" and "Toasty/Creamy" categories. Heavenly aroma's of freshly baked bread and toasted nuts greet the olfactory senses. The golden hue hints at the softer, more mature overall character. Somewhat honeyed on the palate with baked apple fruits. The mouse is very fine but a little too mild and polite for my taste. I could have used more zip and vigor. This bottle was a slight disappointment for the outlay but somehow I made it through to the end!

 

Give Crisp and Focused a gander!

Time Posted: Apr 24, 2012 at 5:52 AM
 
Shopping Cart Cart 0 items: $0.00

Close

Qty Item Description Price Total
  SubTotal $0.00

View Cart

 
Your Account  |  Login

Tel: 617-623-9500
Monday - Saturday: 9am - 11pm | Sunday: 10am - 8pm
716 Broadway Somerville, MA 02144 USA