Font Mars Picpoul 2009 Once extremely obscure and now just obscure, Picpoul de Pinet is the preferred "indigenous" white grape of the red dominated Languedoc region of southern France. It's easy to see how the locals got all warm and fuzzy about Picpoul as it offers white wines of substance and charm without being ostentatious or unwieldy. Melon and golden pear fruits travel on an upward trajectory secure on the tracks of focused minerals and wispy herbs. Purity and freshness are the key words (so often the case on these pages, no?) in this all purpose white wine lover's white wine. Not as light as Italian Pinot Grigio but certainly no thickly Chardonnay sub, this is a wine that offers refined satisfaction. The bright green Font Mars font on the black label background somehow gives the right impression - crisp and well defined with bright, lip smacking refreshment. Neat. Pairing: Pasta with Lemon Cream Sauce, Turkey tips

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